Ebike Shopping Guide: Everything You Need to Know Before Buying

• You’re thinking about buying an ebike.
• You’re primarily looking to conveniently get around town, commuting, running errands, maybe transporting young children.
• You have the money to spend on a decent ebike.
• You are in America - lots of the information in here will be useful in other markets too but some contents (e.g., the Class 1/2/3 system, common brands, security needs) are US-specific.

This guide is not intended to give advice on building or converting an e-bike

This guide is not intended to give advice on buying scrambler-style e-bikes or electric motorcycles.

Budget ranges

The e-bike market can roughly be divided into three ranges:

• Cheap (<$1,000)
• Mid-range ($1,000 - $2,500)
• High-end ($2,500+, can reach 5 figures)

Cheap bikes (<$1,000)

• Cheap e-bikes will typically come from Amazon or Alibaba, from relatively unknown brands with weak customer support
• Inexpensive components may be less reliable, lower performance, or, in the case of batteries, potentially dangerous
• Relatively low occurrence of highly-customized or proprietary parts in this price range, which means that they should be relatively repairable. But be sure to research your particular model as much as possible before buying, as there may be exceptions.
• Some users have difficulty finding bike shops who will work on their bikes bought from direct-to-consumer companies; consider researching this before buying.

Mid-range bikes ($1,000-2,500)

• The most popular e-bikes on the market
• Usually direct-to-consumer (DTC) companies with pretty good reputations for quality, decent components and performance, and large and active online owners’ communities
• Most of these DTC companies are young, highly marketing-driven, prone to boom-bust cycles based on private fundraising
• Drawbacks in this price range include uneven customer service (many DTC companies shed jobs during leaner times, leading to long and poor wait times for help), some highly-customized/proprietary components that leave you tethered to the company.
• Some users have difficulty finding bike shops who will work on their bikes bought from DTC companies; consider researching this before buying.*
• Most bikes in this range use Chinese motors, typically hub motors, many use cadence sensors, most of them have throttles.
• More expensive bikes in this range may have some features more typically found on high-end bikes, like mid-drive motors, torque sensors, or belt drives.
• Some well-known brands:

High-end bikes ($2,500+)

• Typically more established companies
• Usually sold through a dealer / local bike shop network, making it easier to test ride bikes (subject to inventory) and providing an easy servicing and repair location
• Most bikes use German or Japanese motors (e.g., Bosch, Yamaha, Shimano, Brose) in this price range and are mid-drive bikes with no throttle;  although some of these brands have started launching entry-level bikes <$3,000 with hub drive/throttle systems (e.g., Specialized Globe Haul ST). Note that these electronic components can be expensive to repair or replace once out of warranty!
• Use higher-quality components that are well-known and well-supported by the companies and local bike shops.
• Generally no-hassle purchasing and ownership experience, at least for the first few years; BUT reliance on your local bike shop for repairs may leave your bike in the shop for long stretches if service is needed. Typically, though, you should be able to own these bikes for five years or more.
• Usually UL Certified - most rigorous standardized testing of battery safety.
• Some well-known brands:

E-bike form factors

Hybrid bike

• Somewhat upright riding position, but slightly more athletically engaged than a cruiser
• Lighter-weight ebikes (often <50 lbs, some <40 lbs)
• Some cargo capacity (~25 lbs on the rear rack), useful for commuting but not necessarily carrying a kid or lots of groceries
• Moderate-to-thin tires to increase speed
• Examples: Propella, Aventon Soltera, Lectric XPress, Ride1Up Roadster, VVolt Centauri, Ride1Up Prodigy,  Priority Current, Momentum Transend E+, Specialized Turbo Vado, Riese & Muller Roadster

Cruiser (or “Dutch-style”)

Comfortable, upright riding position

Less efficient / athletic riding posture

Decent cargo capacity (often ~50 lbs on the rear rack)

Moderately heavy bikes (usually 50-70 lbs)

Medium-thickness tires to balance speed, traction & comfort

Can be high-step or step-through

Examples: Lectric XPress Step-Thru, Electric Bike Company, Radster Road, FLX Step-through 2.0, Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser, Surface604 Rook, Gazelle (many models), Specialized Turbo Como, Benno 46er, Riese & Muller Nevo

Utility (or short/mid-tail cargo)

Upright riding position

• Very good carrying capacity; typically sized to hold 1 additional passenger only. Fairly heavy bikes (usually 60lbs+)
• Medium-thickness tires to provide comfort, load capacity, and stability on smaller tires
• Typically step-through (so you don’t kick your passenger in the face)
• Examples: Velotric Go, RadRunner, Blix Dubbel, Surface604 Werk, Specialized Globe Haul ST*, Benno RemiDemi,   Tern Quick Haul, Surly Skid Loader, CERO One, Tern HSD

Longtail cargo

• Maximum carrying capacity (usually >300 lbs total, sometimes >400 lbs).
• Very heavy bikes (usually 70lbs+)
• Long enough to hold 2 kids on the back. Often have many accessories for kids/passengers available (e.g., passenger rails, weather enclosures)
• Medium-thickness tires to provide comfort and load capacity
• Typically step-through (don’t kick your passenger in the face!)
• Examples: Lectric XPedition, RadWagon, Velotric Packer, Aventon Abound, Specialized Globe Haul LT*, Momentum Cito E+ & Pakyak, Tern Quick Haul Long, Benno Boost, Cannondale Cargowagen Neo, Trek Fetch 2,  Xtracycle, Yuba, Tern GSD

Compact bike

• Designed to be nimble urban commuting bikes
• Small wheels (~20”), relatively lightweight
• Take up less space than normal bikes and have a low center of gravity, but lack a folding mechanism
• Small category of bikes (but growing!)
• Some cargo capacity (but typically not a huge amount)
• Examples: Propella Mini Max, Cannondale Compact Neo,  Tern NBD

Folding bike

• Upright riding position, step-through geometry. Usually very accommodating for shorter riders.
• Typically have medium-to-fat tires to maximize stability on smaller wheels
• Weight varies substantially; some lighter bikes (~50lbs or under); many cheap and extremely heavy (70 lbs+) on the market as well
• Can be folded up for convenient storage
• Examples: Lectric, Fiido, Dahon, Evelo Dash, Gocycle, Brompton, Tern Vektron

Mountain bike

• Relatively upright riding position, but typically designed to be comfortable to ride standing up
• Thicker tires to maximize traction and grip off road
• Front suspension standard, rear suspension common
• Some cargo capacity, varies model to model. Rear racks especially difficult on bikes with rear suspensions.
• Examples: RadRover 6, Surface604 Boar, Aventon Ramblas, Quietkat Apex, Cube Stereo, Co-Op DRT e3.1, Bulls Evo, Specialized Turbo Levo

Road or racing bike

• Efficient, athletically-engaged, hunched over, aerodynamic position
• Extremely skinny tires to maximize speed
• Minimal cargo capacity, no suspension
• Extremely lightweight
• Only made by high-end bike companies, typically very expensive

Scramblers and e-motorcycles

• Looks more like a moped or motorcycle than a traditional bicycle
• May have pedals but is designed to be mostly used without pedaling
• Often has the ability to unlock higher speeds (30 mph+)
• Typically ~60-70 lbs
• Gets dirty looks on shared trails
• Elevated risk of getting regulated out of easy ownership
• Examples: EBC Model J, Juiced Scorpion, Super73, Sur-Ron, Trek Ponto Go!

Bakfiets or “basket”/“box” bike

• (also called “cargo,” especially in Europe)
• Maximum  carrying capacity
• Very heavy bikes (100 lbs+)
• Many accessories to customize front storage space, including sometimes infant carseat adapters
• All e-bikes of this type are very expensive (~$4,000+)
• Examples: Bunch, Yuba Supercargo CL, Trek Fetch 4, Urban Arrow, Riese & Muller Load

Size and weight

Ebikes are typically heavy. If your ebike regularly has to travel up/down a flight of stairs, proceed with caution, because most ebikes will be too heavy for you. Look for (relatively rare) bikes in the <40 lbs range (see appendix).

Note that because ebikes are typically heavy, most ebikes will not fit on a standard trunk bike rack on your car.

If you are pretty short (say, <5’5), pretty tall (say, >6’3), or on the heavier side (say, >250 lbs.), be extra selective about size, fit, and payload, as some common ebike designs may not be appropriate for your needs.

The best bikes for hauling kids typically share some common features

E-Bike classes

• Local laws may dictate that some classes of e-bikes may not be used in certain situations (e.g., some shared multi-use trails may disallow Class 2 or Class 3 bikes)
• Some bikes may be Class 2 and Class 3 (i.e., they have a throttle, and the motor goes up to 28 mph)
• Some bikes may ship with a 20 mph limit, but allow users to change settings or reprogram the controller to allow for Class 3 operation.

Mid-drive vs. Hub drive

• This is a difference in where the motor is located and how it operates

• Mid-drive motors are located where the pedals attach to the frame, they apply power to the chain-ring (the part that you apply force to when you pedal)

• Hub motors are integrated into the wheel (typically the rear wheel, but not always) and directly spin the wheel, independent of the force you apply to the pedals & chainring

Typical benefits of mid-drive motors

• Almost always paired with a torque sensor; mid-drive + torque sensor gives the most “natural” pedaling experience
• Higher applied torque; while the torque numbers given on spec sheets will often be lower than on hub motors (ignore spec comparisons between hub & mid bikes for this reason), in reality the applied torque available is higher because the torque can be scaled using your gears. As a result, mid-drive motors are typically preferred if there’s a lot of hill-climbing in your future.
• Longer range, because the motor takes advantage of gearing for extra efficiency
• Better center of gravity (weight is low and centered on the frame)
• Can be paired with an internally-geared hub
• Easier to change a rear wheel flat because it doesn’t have a motor attached to it
• Cleaner look with fewer exposed cables

Typical benefits of hub-drive motors

• Applies consistent power no matter what gear you are in, so no need to manage gearing to maximize torque or minimize strain on drivetrain (poor gear management can break the chain on a mid-drive motor)
• Usually have a throttle, giving more flexibility in riding, and allowing the bike to be used even in the event of a broken chain
• Less strain on other components of your drive train, as the hub independently operates on your wheel (mid-drives wear through chains and cassettes faster)
• Typically more affordable than mid-drive bikes

Cadence vs. Torque sensors

• Every bike has sensors that tell the motor when to turn on and how much power to apply
• Cadence sensors detect that you have started spinning the pedals with your feet, and tell the motor to engage
• Torque sensors detect that you are applying pressure to the pedals, and tell the motor to engage
• Torque sensors are typically more expensive but preferred, because:
• The power applied by the motor scales with the power you’re applying by foot, resulting in a more “natural” feeling application of power, vs. a cadence sensor whose application of power feels a little more like flipping a switch on and off and can be jerky.
• Because cadence sensors rely on pedal revolution to activate the motor, there is a noticeable delay between when you start pedaling and when the motor turns on. Torque sensors respond almost instantly.
• Virtually all higher-end bikes use torque sensors.

Throttle vs. Pedal-assist

• Some e-bikes have a throttle (either a thumb trigger or a twist throttle) that allows the motors to apply power without pedaling (which makes them Class 2)
• Throttle e-bikes all also use pedal-assistance (i.e., the motor engages in response to your pedaling), but give users an additional option to throttle
• Throttles are only found on bikes with hub/Chinese motors, so are absent from higher-end models
• Throttles can be useful for commuting, allowing easy stable travel at very low speeds (e.g. on sidewalks), and easy start-ups from red lights & stop signs

Gearing and drivetrain

• Some e-bikes are single-speed e-bikes, meaning they only have one gear. These are very simple and reliable but may not be as easy to use to climb hills, and/or may result in “ghost-pedaling” (pedaling really fast like you’re on a hamster wheel without adding much power to the bike) at higher speeds
• Most e-bikes have gear cassettes, usually 7 to 9 gears. Ghost-pedaling can still be an issue if the highest gear isn’t small enough. Test riding is always recommended!
• Some higher-end bikes have internally geared hubs (IGHs). These are sealed gear systems with some major benefits - they allow you to shift gears while stopped (making stop & go urban commuting easier) and they require less maintenance and are more reliable (but maintenance is more complex). Some IGHs may be continuously variable (CVTs), some may be fully automatic (they change gears for you).
• IGHs are often paired with belt drives, which replace bike chains with belts, which require far less maintenance and last much longer than chains.

Repairability

Your bike will need regular servicing, and things will go wrong. Make sure you have a plan for how to repair it.

Higher-end bikes should easily be able to be serviced at the bike shop you buy from

For other brands, consider prioritizing bikes that minimize proprietary parts (like motor, battery, controller) and have solid customer service reputations

Consider reaching out to a local bike shop or mechanic before you buy to see if they will be comfortable working on your bike. Many shops will typically work on the standard mechanical parts of your bike (assuming they are not highly unusual or proprietary) but may not service electronic components.

Budget for accessories

Leave yourself room in your budget for accessories.

These can easily add a few hundred dollars to the cost of your bike:

High quality lock: You will likely want high-quality locks to protect your investment, which can be expensive! More security tips on the next page.

Helmet: Keep your brain safe! Make sure you are riding with something that is at least MIPS certified and fits well.

Tools: You’ll probably want some basic tools to do maintenance, at a minimum a good tire pressure gauge, bike pump, and allen key set.

Passenger accessories: If you’re a parent, you might buy a passenger rail & child seat(s) and your total accessories cost (with all the other things on this page) could be around $1,000 or even more.

Miscellaneous accessories: You might buy front or rear racks or baskets, a side-view mirror, bungee cords, a cushier seat, suspension seatpost, lights for your bike or helmet.