How to Install and Remove Bike or E-Bike Pedals

Installing (or removing) bike and e-bike pedals is simple: the right pedal loosens left (counterclockwise), and the left pedal loosens right (clockwise). Use a 15mm pedal wrench or a 6/8mm hex key, and always start the threads by hand with a little grease so you don’t cross-thread the crank. This guide covers the exact steps for removal and installation, plus foldable pedal tips and fixes for stuck pedals.

Why Removing Ebike Pedals Feels Like a Pain

Pedals tighten themselves over time. Every pedal stroke loads the spindle and threads in a way that keeps the pedal from backing out, which is great for safety but annoying for maintenance. Add rain, road salt, dirt, or years of dry threads, and the pedal can feel welded to the crank arm.

Another big reason it feels hard is that many riders accidentally turn the wrong direction on the left side, which tightens it even more. Once you know the thread direction, most “stuck” pedals stop being mysterious.

The One Rule You Must Remember: Left Pedal Is Reverse Thread

This is the rule that prevents most mistakes:

• Right pedal (drive side, chain side): normal thread
• Left pedal (non-drive side): reverse thread

A simple memory trick: tighten both pedals by turning the wrench toward the front wheel. For removal, you’ll turn the wrench toward the rear wheel.

Also look for markings. Most pedals have a small “L” or “R” stamped on the end of the spindle or near the wrench flats.

Tools You’ll Need

You don’t need a full workshop. You just need the correct interface tool for your pedal.

Most pedals use one of these:

• 15mm pedal wrench (thin wrench that fits the pedal flats)
• 6mm or 8mm hex key (Allen key inserted from the back side of the crank)

Helpful extras:

• Grease or anti-seize for installation
• Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / WD-40 Specialist / similar) for stuck pedals
• Rag + brush to clean threads 
• Torque wrench (optional, but nice for perfection)

If you’re working on an e-bike, the process is the same. The main difference is you’ll want to be extra careful with thread health because you may ride harder or more often.

Before You Start: Set Up for Safety and Leverage

Put the bike somewhere stable. A repair stand is great, but leaning the bike against a wall works too. If you have a chain, shift to a larger chainring so the chain sits higher—this helps keep your knuckles away from sharp teeth if you slip.

For leverage, position the crank arm so you can push down on the wrench rather than pulling up. Pushing down is usually safer and more controlled.

How to Remove Ebike Pedals Without the Stress

Start by identifying which side you’re on, then commit to the correct direction.

Step 1: Identify Left vs Right

• Right/drive side = chain side
• Left/non-drive side = opposite of the chain

Step 2: Loosen in the Correct Direction

• Right pedal: loosen by turning counterclockwise
• Left pedal: loosen by turning clockwise

If you use the “front wheel trick,” removal is toward the rear wheel on both sides.

Step 3: Use the Right Contact Point

• If your pedal has wrench flats, use a 15mm pedal wrench
• If it has an internal hex, insert the hex key from the back of the crank (common on many newer pedals)

Make sure the tool is fully seated. Half-seated tools round bolts and strip flats fast.

Step 4: Apply Controlled Force

If it’s tight, use body weight. A common safe move is placing the wrench horizontal and pressing down with your palm or carefully with your foot while holding the bike steady. Don’t bounce or jerk—steady pressure works best.

Step 5: If It’s Stuck, Use an Escalation Ladder

If the pedal won’t budge, don’t brute-force it immediately. Work your way up:

1. Re-check direction (especially on the left side)
2. Add penetrating oil at the crank/pedal junction and wait 5–15 minutes
3. Increase leverage with a longer wrench/handle
4. Try again with steady pressure
5. If it still won’t move, consider a shop to protect crank threads

For very corroded setups, gentle heat can help, but it’s easy to damage finishes or nearby parts. If you’re not experienced, a bike shop is cheaper than replacing crank arms.

Installing Ebike Pedals: Keep It Simple and Thread-Safe

Installation is where people accidentally cross-thread. The goal is to let the pedal “find” the threads naturally.

Step 1: Clean the Crank Threads

Wipe old grease, dirt, and grit off the crank threads. A small brush helps. Clean threads start straight and tighten smoothly.

Step 2: Grease the Threads

Add a thin coat of grease or anti-seize to the pedal threads. This prevents corrosion, makes removal easier later, and reduces the chance of thread galling. It’s one of the easiest upgrades to your future self.

Step 3: Start by Hand Only

This is the most important step. Thread each pedal in by hand for several full turns.

If it doesn’t spin in easily, stop immediately. That’s how you avoid cross-threading. Back it out, re-align, and try again.

Step 4: Tighten with the Tool

Once it’s fully hand-threaded, snug it down with your pedal wrench or hex key. You don’t need to overdo it. Pedals naturally stay tight during riding.

If you’re using a torque wrench, many pedals land in the typical manufacturer range around 35–40 Nm, but always follow the pedal maker’s spec if provided.

Step 5: Quick Safety Check

Spin the cranks and make sure both pedals rotate smoothly. Then do a short ride and re-check snugness. If anything feels loose, tighten it slightly.

Foldable E-Bike Pedals: What’s Special and What to Watch For

Foldable pedals are popular on commuter and folding e-bikes because they reduce bike width and help with storage. The installation at the threads is the same as normal pedals, but the pedal body has a few extra checks.

Pay attention to:

• Hinge direction and clearance: make sure folding doesn’t hit the crank arm or frame
• Locking action: the pedal should click into place firmly when unfolded
• Grip and platform size: small foldables can feel less stable for longer rides
• Durability: hinges can loosen over time, especially in wet or gritty conditions

If you commute daily, foldables are convenient. If you ride fast, stand up often, or ride rough roads, a solid platform pedal may feel better.

Signs You Need New Pedals (Not Just a Reinstall)

Sometimes the problem isn’t installation—it’s worn pedals.

Common signs:

• The pedal feels gritty or rough when spinning
• There’s side-to-side play at the pedal body
• You hear clicking that changes with pedal load
• The spindle is after a strike
• Wrench flats or hex interface is rounded

If you see damaged threads on the spindle, replace the pedal. If crank threads are damaged, you may need a thread repair insert or a new crank arm.

Avoiding Common Problems

Most pedal problems come from one of these mistakes: wrong direction, cross-threading, or over-tightening.

Cross-threading

If the pedal won’t thread in smoothly by hand, don’t force it. Cross-threading can permanently damage crank threads. Always back out and restart.

Stripped crank threads

If threads are already damaged, installation may feel loose or “crunchy.” A shop can sometimes repair threads with a tap or install a thread insert, but don’t ignore it—pedals are a safety-critical part.

Pedal keeps loosening

This is often user error:

• installed on the wrong side (L/R swapped)
• not fully tightened after hand threading
• incorrect washers/spacers for your crank interface

Swap sides correctly and reinstall with grease.

Pro Tips to Make Pedal Swaps Easier Next Time

If you want this job to be “two minutes” forever, do these things once.

• Mark L and R on the pedals with a paint pen
• Keep a 15mm pedal wrench in your garage or kit
• Use grease every time you install pedals
• If you ride in rain or near the ocean, re-grease periodically
• After your first ride, do a quick snug check

Why This Matters More Than People Think (Especially on E-Bikes)

Loose pedals can damage crank threads, create annoying creaks, or even come off mid-ride. E-bike riders often put more miles on their bikes, ride in more weather, and accelerate harder, which makes maintenance habits matter more. Proper installation protects the crank arm, prevents future headaches, and keeps your ride quiet and safe.

Conclusion

Swapping pedals doesn’t have to be a struggle. Once you remember the left pedal uses reverse threads, use the right tool, and always start threading by hand with a little grease, you’ll avoid stripped crank arms and stubborn, seized pedals. Whether you’re installing standard flats, clipless pedals, or foldable e-bike pedals, a clean install and a quick snug check after your first ride keeps everything quiet, safe, and easy to remove next time.

FAQs

Which direction do I loosen ebike pedals?

Right pedal loosens counterclockwise. Left pedal loosens clockwise.

Do I really need grease on pedal threads?

Yes. Grease prevents corrosion and makes removal easier later. It also helps protect crank threads.

Can I use a regular wrench?

Sometimes, but a dedicated pedal wrench is thinner and fits better. Many pedals also use a 6mm or 8mm hex key.

How tight should ebike pedals be?

Snug and secure is enough. Don’t over-tighten. If you have a torque wrench, follow the pedal manufacturer’s torque spec.

What if I stripped the threads?

Stop riding if the pedal feels loose. You may need thread repair or a new crank arm. A bike shop can evaluate it quickly.